On more than one occasion whilst mentioning the imminent release of
The Founder, the biopic of the man
who brought fast food to the world, the same joke was cracked. “So
it's a film about Ronald McDonald then?” Oh how we chuckled. Whilst
you can argue there may have been a great missed opportunity in not
telling the fictional tale of the custard coloured
clown's ascent from clown college to the pinnacle of an obesity
empire, that question does hit on a deeper point. Who is this is Mr.
McDonald then? The man who brought us the Happy Meal toy, the
Fillet-O-Fish and the McRib. Everyone knows the name, but the only
face they know is crimson cropped and pallid with an ever so slightly
homicidal glint in his mirthful eyes.
The Founder, directed by John Lee
Hancock, is in fact the story of one Ray Kroc. I can't say for
certain whether or not his descendants ever leant their name to a
line of rubber sandals whose comfort and practicality are outweighed
only by their abhorrent aesthetic but I can say for certain that the
man did not lend his name to a fast food chain. Instead, when we meet
him he is a professional salesman trying to flog milkshake makers.
When he one day receives a bewilderingly large order for these
devices from a restaurant in California he is lead to the door of the
McDonald brothers revolutionary burger stand. The film then follows
his journey from inspiration to success with just a pinch of
persistence, a dollop of determination and a liberal sprinkling of
skulduggery.
The tale itself is certainly
intriguing. Whilst the outcome is never in question, this is a film
about the journey more than the destination. The brothers
themselves were happy just running an efficient and successful
restaurant with little concern for the bigger picture when all of a
sudden their lives are turned around by a man with capitalism
coursing through his veins. What starts off as a rose tinted paean to
a company founded on family values and a quality product gradually
gets warped in to something far less nourishing. Kroc sells them on a
yarn about how the grand golden arches can be the symbol of the new
American church. The film acknowledges this moment safe in the
certainty that history would eventually prove him right and knowing
just what kind of a god complex it would take to pull it off.
Whilst production line delivery is
key to McDonalds success, it unfortunately proves to be a slight
downfall for the film. Tales of devious capitalism have proven strong
cinematic fodder in the past with everything from oil in There Will
Be Blood to cocaine in Blow, but this film relies too much on being
an easily consumable product. You have the early struggle, the flash
of inspiration, the initial adversity and the eventual glory that
comes at a cost. It ticks all the boxes but loses a bit of the flavor
in the process. It may be a bit much to expect this particular story
to deal in subtlety but as you see the man being lead to betray both
his wife and his business partners through the medium of a
seductively stirred milkshake, you can't help but feel they are
laying it on a bit thick.
There is a lot to be said though for
Michael Keaton's lead turn as the eponymous 'founder'. His
re-emergence in recent years as an actor synonymous with performances
of prestige is a story almost worthy of a film in its own right. He
perfectly captures the megalomanical glint of a man who when
presented with his break ultimately chooses to break bad and hits all
the right notes of empathy and villainy to keep the audience with
him. It is a performance big enough that all other characters are
very much relegated to the minor supporting category. Nick Offerman
and John Carroll Lynch are very effective in capturing the tragedy of
the hard done by McDonald brothers where as Laura Dern has little to do but suffer on the sidelines as Kroc's forgotten
wife. You can't help but feel there was a better performance in there
that for a story which film wasn't particularly interested in
telling.
Overall there is a lot of
entertainment to be had in the most nefarious tale of name branded
meat this side of a Trump steak. The film benefits from a feeling of
fortuitous timeliness; the slice of sepia tinged Americana corrupted
through an avaricious figurehead. As a piece of film making though it
settles for being good when it could have been great. Hollywood loves
stories of desperate men willing to succeed at any cost and this one
came coupled with the strongest brand recognition you could possibly
ask for. It's just a shame it was assembled with efficiency when it
could have used just a little more inspiration.
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